By Aamir Mannan.
At the center of Coco Chanel’s 1932 Bijoux de Diamants jewelry collection is the Comète, a spectacular 649-diamond collar in the form of a shooting star. Despite its obvious opulence, a perfect purity of line keeps it from being flashy . . . and, moreover, makes it as chic today as it was way back when. At the opposite end of Mlle Chanel’s style spectrum is the humble Little Black Dress, as pure and simple and unostentatious as chic can be. Together, they epitomize Chanel’s unique blend of luxury and restraint—a potent dichotomy that has become a near-universal style template for women across the globe and down the decades. “A woman can be overdressed, never over-elegant,”[1] Coco herself once said.
“With a black sweater and ten rows of pearls,”[2] as the postwar couturier Christian Dior once observed, Mlle Chanel revolutionized the way we dress. Paul Poiret, an early rival, was not so kind: “Poverty deluxe,”[3] he called the youthful, pared-down look that transformed women from overblown Belle Époque belles into sleek, bobbed-hair, modern women...
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