French Polynesia Pearl Diamond Wedding Bridal Fashion Jewelry 24

French Polynesia Pearl Diamond Wedding Bridal Fashion Jewelry.

By Aamir Mannan.

The exhibition’s portrayal of the history of pearls begins – perhaps too Eurocentrically – with the tradition of the ‘cabinet of curiosities,’ the encyclopaedic microcosms constructed by early modern princes and scholars. Reflecting man’s privileged place in God’s creation, the cabinets juxtaposed the creations of art and nature, with one always trying to outdo the other in a battle of conceits. Fished from the seas yet selected and mounted with matchless artistry, pearls captured the transition of human creation into divine nature. They were irresistible, as shown in Jeanne de Marigny’s portrait, where all attention goes to her pear-lined satin dress.

Installation image of 'Pearls' |  © Victoria and Albert Museum

Installation image of 'Pearls' | © Victoria and Albert Museum

Yet there is more to the ‘cabinet of curiosity’ than the wonders of 

17th century haute couture. Emphasised in the flimsy boundary between nature and culture, this first display sets the scene for scientific imagining. Again and again the exhibition uses the constructed languages of X-rays and microscopes to reveal what exactly is in the ‘nature’ of a pearl.